Ibrahim A. El-Hawary, Alexandria University, Textile Engineering Department, Alexandria, Egypt and Ramsis Farag, Auburn University, Polymer and Fiber Engineering Department, 105 Textile Engineering Bldg., Auburn, AL 36849-5327.
Older generations of Egyptian cotton varieties are seasonally upgraded by new generations. This is a direct result of the deterioration of fiber quality of the old varieties. One of the latest upgrade varieties is the so-called Giza-90. This study focuses on the impact of this new variety on yarn quality and processing performance. Six yarns were ring spun in yarn counts (tex): 14.8, 16.4, 19.37, 24.6, 29.5 and 37. Corresponding optimum twist multipliers were 4616, 4455, 4527, 4464, 4454, and 4623 consequently. Evaluation of fiber quality was performed using the so-called Fiber Quality Index (FQI) which is a function of the 50% span length, fiber tenacity, and Micronaire. Yarn quality was also expressed using a Yarn Quality Index, which is a function of yarn strength, and yarn thickness irregularity. The recorded quality of Giza 90 cotton fibres was: UHM = 28.7 mm, Uniformity Index = 84, Tenacity 34.5 cN. Per Tex, Breaking Elongation 7.7%, Mic = 4.10, Color Reflectance Rd = 66, yellowness (+ b) = 11.4, trash cnt = 60 and spinning consistency Index SCI = 149. The yarn quality level of 14.8 per Tex yarn that prodneed from G– 90 cotton was: Tenacity = 15.7cN. Per Tex breaking Elongation = 4.8% CVm % = 20.5 and Hairiness (UT3 standard) = 5.2. Quality levels of the all yarns were tabulated, exhibited and statistically analyzed.. This paper discusses the significance of this upgrade variety.
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